To Market, To Market: July 10, 2013

Amanda Hobson

It is loud, the odor is unforgettable, and there are people everywhere. The Kotokuraba Market is not for the faint of heart. It is not in any way an o’bruyni market. There are no tourist items here; no crafty artifacts for the collector.  Kotokuraba is the economic hub of the Central Rregion of Ghana.  All of the major trading stores and businesses are located around the market and there is even a transport yard with taxis and tro tros for people  traveling to and from different parts of the country. 

We spent part of this afternoon walking through the market with Prof and meeting some of his ‘market ladies’ who have become dear friends over the years.  Dr. Clerico started these friendships by asking if he could take pictures of these women who work tirelessly selling their goods.  He would then return the next day with their printed pictures to give to them.  The photos are beautiful and seem to capture the stories behind their tired eyes.  

‘Agoo!’ calls a woman behind us.  The eleven Buccaneers are taking up too much space in the narrow path of the market.  A young girl on the brink of becoming an adult is carrying a large load of yams on her head after a long day at school.  This is my fourth trip to Ghana, but I am still amazed by everyone’s work ethic. The Ghanaians we meet work harder than any of us will ever have to. 

A few of us bought some pure Ghanaian Shea Butter and then continued making our way through the narrow alleyways until we emerged onto a busy street outside of the market.  The sky was bright blue; the sun scorching.  It was the kind of sun that you think about when you say "Africa." This afternoon, the weather definitely competed with the hottest summer day in Charleston. As we waited for the tro tro to come pick us up (there is no parking permitted around the market) we tried to stay out of everyone's way because, as always, the market street was incredibly busy, traffic was backed up, and people were hurrying about doing business.  We watched four men unload a tiny little van loaded with fifteen 100-pound sacks of sugar.  One man was inside and as each of the others came to the open rear door, he helped him place one bag onto his head.  Then the loaded man walked away and around the corner delivering the sugar to a shop merchant. It only took about 10 minutes to empty the little van.  One member of our group opined that in the U.S. it would have taken a forklift and 3 guys at least that long if not longer.

Although Ghana's markets appear chaotic and out of control, there is order and there is routine.  Somehow it just works in Ghana.  I am reminded of the philosophy of Ubuntu, which can be translated into, ‘I Am Because We Are’.  Amongst the seemingly constant confusion, people are working together.  In Ghana, you do not pass by a brother or sister who needs help. You stop what you are doing and where you are going, help as you can and then continue on your way.

Our group has been reflecting on what we have observed over the past week.  What are the implications for our own lives? Can we bring a piece of this beautiful country back with us? 

Today was again full of new experiences and we look forward to learning more from our new home away from home.